Cartagena, My Love: The City by Someone Who Lives Here
Updated: 21 September 2026 · Written by Marta Fernández, founder of CABÚ Viajes, local operator in Cartagena de Indias (RNT 215668). Rated 5.0 out of 5 on Google across 14 reviews.
In short: Cartagena is not a resort with a city attached. It is a walled colonial port on the Colombian Caribbean, a UNESCO World Heritage site, where the old town is small enough to cross on foot in twenty minutes and the night ends at three. This is what it is actually like to be here, written by someone who lives and works in it rather than someone selling a package from elsewhere.
The walled city: a legacy in stone and colour
The historic centre is enclosed by stone walls built over more than a century to defend a port that Spain could not afford to lose. Inside, the streets are narrow, shaded and short: balconies spilling bougainvillea, doors painted in colours that would look absurd anywhere with less light, plazas that fill at dusk. It is a UNESCO World Heritage site, and the important practical consequence of that is scale — everything inside the walls is walkable, so an evening can move from a rooftop to dinner to a bar without anyone getting into a car.
This is why a group that stays inside the walls has a different trip from a group that stays in a hotel strip. The city does the work.
Getsemaní: the bohemian soul next door
Immediately outside the walls, Getsemaní was where the city's workers lived and is now where much of its night happens: painted streets, murals, plaza life that starts late, small bars, and the clubs on Calle del Arsenal. It is less polished than the walled city and more alive. Most groups end up spending time in both, and the two are ten minutes apart on foot.
The Caribbean contrast: heritage and modernity
Across the bay, Bocagrande is towers and beachfront; a twenty-minute boat ride from the marina are Cholón and the Rosario Islands, which is where the water actually turns the colour people come for. Cartagena works as a base precisely because of this contrast: a colonial city you sleep in, open sea within half an hour, and a bay that separates the two.
About the author
Marta Fernández founded CABÚ Viajes in 2021 and runs it from Cartagena de Indias. She is the person who contracts the houses, the boats, the chefs and the transport directly with their owners, and the person who answers when a group writes — in Spanish or English, at any hour.
That matters for what you are reading. The guides on this site are not compiled from other people's articles: the prices are the ones CABÚ pays, the closing times are the ones the doors actually keep, and the warnings are the ones that come from having sent groups out on the water every week. Where Cartagena is the wrong answer — a group of four, a two-night weekend, someone without a passport — the comparisons on this site say so.
CABÚ Viajes is registered on the Colombian National Tourism Register under RNT 215668, a public register anyone can check for free. The full company profile is here.
Why experience Cartagena with a local operator
- No agency fee. You pay what the house, the boat and the van actually cost; the organising is its own line in the quote.
- Direct contracting. We can refuse a boat without the right licence or a house that photographs better than it lives, because we see them.
- One person responsible. Not a call centre in another country and not a chain of intermediaries at eleven at night.
- Written before it is booked. An itemised quote in under 24 hours, a deposit that holds the house, and a company invoice for every payment.
Frequently asked questions about Cartagena
How many days do you need in Cartagena?
Three full days is the minimum that works: one for the walled city and Getsemaní on foot, one full day on the water at Cholón or the Rosario Islands, and one loose day for the beach, a museum or simply the pace. For a group trip we recommend four nights, because the island day needs a spare day in case the sea is rough.
When is the best time to visit Cartagena?
December to April is the dry season and the most reliable weather, with January and February bringing a steady breeze that makes the heat easier and the sea choppier. May to November is the rainy season: afternoon downpours, lower prices, and an occasional dock closure that can move a boat day. It is Caribbean heat all year — there is no cool month.
What should you not miss in Cartagena?
Walking the walled city at dusk rather than at midday, when the light is worth the trip and the heat has dropped. A full day on the water. A night that starts on a rooftop and ends in Getsemaní. And at least one meal that is not in a plaza with a menu in four languages.
Is Cartagena an expensive city?
It is the most expensive city in Colombia and still a fraction of the Caribbean equivalents. Dinners, drinks and club tables cost far less than in Miami, Cancún's hotel zone or San Juan. What is genuinely expensive is a private boat day, because you are chartering the whole boat — which is also why it gets cheaper per person the bigger the group is.
Can you get around Cartagena on foot?
Inside the walled city and Getsemaní, yes, and that is the point: the two together are crossed on foot in about twenty minutes. Bocagrande, the airport and the marina need a car, and for a group a private van is simpler and cheaper than several taxis.
What language is spoken, and is English widely used?
Spanish. English is common in hotels, the better restaurants and among guides, but not on the street, in taxis or at the smaller places worth eating in. A group travelling with someone local stops noticing; a group without one notices constantly.
Keep reading
- Cartagena nightclubs, rooftops and bars: zones, the dress code that turns groups away, and what a night costs.
- Is Cartagena safe? The honest guide, with the official sources.
- Bachelor party and bachelorette party in Cartagena: the house, the boat and the prices.
- Nonstop flights from the US, every route verified.
- Who we are: the company profile, the RNT and how we work.
Write to us now, and what happens next
Message us on WhatsApp → +1 754 201 9833 · answered the same day between 8:00 and 21:00 Colombia time (COT). Prefer email or a form? Ask for your quote here.
Send these five things and nothing else is needed: the dates or the month, how many nights, how many people, what is non-negotiable for this group, and the city everyone is flying from.
- Within 24 hours on a working day you get two or three houses or boats that actually fit those dates, with what we checked on each one, and an itemised quote: each line priced separately, what is included and what is not, and the payment calendar. No agency fee.
- You choose. Nothing is held or booked until you confirm in writing. If nothing fits, we say so instead of pushing a substitute.
- Deposit against a company invoice — never 100% upfront, never to a personal account — and each traveller can pay her own share and receive her own receipt.
- One named contact on WhatsApp before, during and after the trip, who answers at eleven at night on the 31st. RNT 215668, verifiable in the public Colombian registry.
December and the first week of January are quoted on the actual house, in writing, because those two weeks sell out first.
Tell us what you need and get it back in 24 hours
You do not need to have everything decided. Dates or the month, how many nights, how many people, what is non-negotiable for the group, and where everyone is flying from — that is enough for a real quote, itemised per unit, with no agency fee and no commitment.
Ask for your quote here · Local operator in Cartagena, RNT 215668.